Thank you for welcoming a new cat (or two!) into your home! 

Congratulations on adopting your new cat or kitten! Here are some tips from CAP to help you keep your cat happy, healthy, and growing. You will need supplies, like food, dishes, and a litter box.  Bringing a new pet into the home, particularly if you have other pets, requires a period of acclimatization.  Cats are inquisitive and may eat hazardous objects - make sure to cat-proof your home so your new friend stays safe.  Consider keeping your cat indoors - indoor cats live twice as long as their outdoor counterparts.  Just like other family members, your cat will need yearly health checkups so a good veterinarian is a must.  Believe it or not, you can train your cat!  And last but not least, play with your cat.  Particularly with indoor cats, play and exercise will keep them fit and happy (the cat dancer is a sure-fire hit).

 

Most cats benefit greatly from another cat or cat as a companion. If you have the financial resources to adopt two, they will make great play pals and keep each other company when the human family members are not at home.  Welcome to the community of feline friends!

Supplies

• Flea Prevention (check out CAP's Cornelius Clinic for great prices on these necessary medications.  The clinic offers low-cost wellness and medications)
• Litter box
• Litter box scooper
• Litter box liners - only needed if you do not want to have to wash out the litter pan every week
• Litter - if your cat is not using the litter box but going elsewhere, it may be the litter so try another brand
• Food - only feed high quality 'cat' food
• Food dishes - always get separate water and food bowls that are not attached to each other
• Scratching posts - at least two, placed in the rooms that the cat frequents most
• Cat brush - medium & long hair cats need to be groomed regularly
• Cat carrier
• Nail clippers - use caution when using nail clippers and never cut below the cuticle line in the nail
• Toys - no toys with objects inside that the cat could swallow
• Get an 'easy to read' first aid emergency books such as The First Aid Companion for Cats and Dogs or Pet First Aid

 CAP's very own Pet Supply Store has new and gently used supplies, and buying from our store helps the shelter with medical care of all of our animals. Check it out!

 

Feeding

Dry food - Have dry cat or kitten food available at all times, and of course, plenty of fresh water. Use high-quality name-brand cat food and speak with your veterinarian if you have any concerns about diet. Introduce the cat/kitten to any new foods gradually to avoid upsetting its stomach. New foods should be mixed with the food the cat/kitten is currently eating, gradually adding more of the new food and less of the old until the kitten is eating the new food exclusively. Whether or not to feed dry or moist cat food is debatable and there are differing opinions on this subject. Note: At the shelter, we rely on donations and do not feed specific brands, although we do feed age-appropriate food. 

Wet food - If you decide to feed moist food, it is very important to not leave uneaten moist food for more than a few hours. Throw away moist food that is starting to dry up.

Treats - It is probably best not to give treats. If you do give treats, never exceed 10% of the diet. If you make a regular habit of giving a treat after you finish eating, the cat will learn to look forward to it and won't bother you, your family, or your guests while you eat, but will wait patiently.

Milk - Contrary to popular belief, cow's milk is not good for cats. Most can't digest it properly and consequently get diarrhea. Do NOT give cow's milk to cats or kittens!

Dishes - Aluminum or glass/glazed porcelain/china dishes are best if you are feeding moist food. Plastic dishes can harbor germs on the surface which can cause a condition known as feline acne. Feline acne is small pimples on the chin, which cause swelling and discomfort and can be very difficult to clear up. If this problem arises, consult your vet for the best method of treatment. Plastic dishes should be fine if you are feeding only dry food.

Acclimatization

Kittens

If you have adopted a kitten, please remember that this is probably your kitten's first time away from the only home they have ever known. Give the kitten time and don't expect him to be best friends with you right away. Keep the kitten's introduction to other family members and pets as quiet and stress-free as possible and, most of all, allow him a day to become used to the new surroundings.

Show the kitten their litter box, food and water as soon as you get them home but be prepared for accidents! However, don't spank the baby if they miss their litter box! Rather, pick them up, put them in their box, and make digging motions with their front paws. Young kittens sometimes forget where their boxes are, or suddenly realize they have to go now - this is normal, and will pass quickly. Also, kittens do best with their 'own' litter box and their 'own' food bowl.

Introduce the kitten to one room at a time; offer encouragement and petting, but allow them to explore in their own time. After they are comfortable and settled down in the first room, allow them to proceed to others. Try not to startle the kitten, and again, remember that this is a stressful time. It is not unusual for a new kitten to hide, be skittish, or refuse to eat for a couple of days. Give lots of 'gentle' petting, soft speech, and encouragement and you will find that the kitten will quickly adjust.

Be aware that the kitten might cry a lot the first couple of nights. Although they are completely weaned, they may miss being around other cats or their mother, or just feel insecure and lonely. As soon as they make friends with you and your other pet(s), this crying should stop. If the kitten does not stop crying, there could be another problem and you should consider consulting your vet.

If you have other pets, wait until the kitten is settled and comfortable before bringing in other animals, then only one at a time. Do not leave the kitten alone with the other pet(s) until you are certain that they are good friends (this may be several weeks!). First let the animals smell where the other has been and then see each other from a distance. When they are first introduced, if they are a dog and cat, have the dog on a leash and make sure the cat does not scratch the dog (keep a water spray bottle handy). Be certain to give the pets already in your home lots of attention in order to prevent jealousy and avoid stirring territorial instincts. The original pet may not take too kindly to the new addition. The new kitten should have his own litter pan and food dish.

Cats

Your cat has been under stress. They have been in a strange place full of other animals. Now they are in a new home, with a new family and maybe even other pets. While you are ready to make your cat a part of your family, they may need transition time. They may go under a bed or some other hiding space. A few hours or even a couple of days may pass before your feline friend decides to come out from hiding. When they emerge, try not to make any sudden movements. Talk softly to them and allow them to sniff you when they are ready. Place treats nearby to lure them out. When your cat realizes you will not hurt them, they will become comfortable and content in your presence.

To introduce two cats, keep them separated for a couple of days, allowing them to smell each other's bedding. Then allow them to sniff each other under a door. The first encounter may be hostile, but allow the cats to work it out. Keep a spray bottle with water ready in case a fight should occur. If the first attempt is unsuccessful, wait a few days and try again.

When introducing a dog and a cat, When the dog is in a calm state and still on a leash, allow the dog and cat to view each other at a distance. You should exude calm but also express firmness and not allow the dog to chase the cat or the cat to scratch the dog. Another human family member should hold the dog leash while you calmly pet the cat, thereby letting the dog know that the cat is part of the family. Most dogs want to please their human companion. If the dog remains fairly calm, allow the dog, while still on a leash, to get close to the cat.

A dog's basic instinct is to chase a cat. Whether the dog chases or not depends on the introduction and on the cat. A cat who is not afraid of dogs and does not run is less likely to provoke a chase. The new dog and your cat should not be alone together for a few weeks because the dog may still chase a running cat. Also, if your dog sees the cat outside, they may feel like the cat is fair game for a chase.

It is important to give equal attention to your original pet. Do not ignore them as this may cause resentment of the new pet, and most important is that the original pet too needs to feel loved, even more so because of the new addition to your family.

Safety

It is very important to make your home safe for your new pet, especially if adopting a kitten. They can get into things that you would never think possible! Check out this article to help you cat-proof your home: Cat/Kitten Proofing Tips. 

• Poisonous plants
• Electrical and phone cords left dangling
• Keep toilet lids closed (cats will drink the water, which has chemicals and fecal matter)
• Make certain they cannot get in the fireplace
• Open stairways - cats & kittens are in great danger in a home with a 'half wall' or even open rails in an upstairs room. They can easily fall through or jump over a half wall, plunging down to the floor below! Take precautions!
• Accessible garbage (especially any kind of bones - bones can either splinter and perforate the stomach or intestines or form an intestinal blockage)
• Needles and/or thread; knitting and/or crocheting materials
• Rubber bands (which can wrap around the intestines)
• Plastic wrap or bags (the cat can eat, or strangle, or suffocate on)
• Styrofoam (especially packing "peanuts") which the cat may eat
• Cigarettes (cats may eat)
• Yarn or string toys (can wrap around the intestines or block them); toys with easily removed and swallowed parts
• Cellophane (turns glassy in the stomach and can cause internal lacerations)
• Christmas tree needles, tinsel and decorations
• Large appliances - always check for cats before shutting or turning on any appliance!
• Put away feathers and toys attached to string (such as kitty teasers) after use (cats eat feathers and swallow string)
• Keep your workshop off-limits (cats will jump at moving objects such as drills and power saws - may also swallow screws, nails, wire, and other small parts)
• Cleaning products and other chemicals (anything with phenyl is deadly to cats - this includes products such as Pinesol and many other disinfectants)
• Floor and counter surfaces (best solution is to use is one part bleach to 30 parts water)
• Anti-freeze (cats love certain scents, and one of their favorites is antifreeze which will kill a cat quickly)
• Never use Lysol products around cats (over a period of time Lysol can sicken or kill a cat)

Emergency Numbers: Keep the phone numbers of your vet, an emergency 'after hours' clinic, and a local poison control center posted by your phone. The number for the National Animal Poison Control Center is (888) 426-4435.

 

Indoors / Outdoors: Keep your cats inside! Consider the fact that cats face many dangers when outside such as cat fights, dog attacks, hit by cars, poisoned or killed by people that do not like cats and there are many contagious diseases they can get when outside. Facts clearly show that on average indoor cats live twice as long as cats allowed to go outdoors. Besides the basics of food and water, give them cat toys, a carpeted kitty condo, a nice window to look out of, some attention and affection and they will be content, as well as safe, indoors. Most animals, not all, usually benefit from having an animal companion of their own species. Provide your cat with a window to look out as most cats enjoy sitting in a window. Many Petsmart or Petco Stores sell window seats. Or place a tall cat-climbing carpeted house by the window.  Also, many areas have leash laws pertaining to cats and dogs, making free-roaming outdoor cats illegal.

Confinement to the house will prevent:

• exposure to diseases such as feline leukemia (FeLV), feline AIDS (FIV), and feline infectious peritonitis (FIP)
• exposure to distemper and respiratory illnesses
• exposure to parasites such as fleas, ticks, ear mites, and worms
• exposure to poisons such as anti-freeze, lawn chemicals, and bait for rodents
• fights with other cats and dogs that could harm them
• torture from cruel people that dislike cats and want to keep them off their property
• being caught in a trap
• being hit and killed by a car
• being crushed by a closing garage door
• them from getting lost
• them from dying from heatstroke or freezing
• being harmed in a car engine

 

Health

Find a veterinarian immediately and establish a relationship. Waiting until you have a sick animal is not the time to find a vet you like and feel comfortable with. Make sure to ask the vet about who would you contact during the hours their clinic is not open. Some vets treat their own emergencies and other vets send you to an animal emergency clinic. Keep the phone numbers of your vet and an emergency 'after hours' clinic (you may want to drive by the emergency clinic so you know how to get there) readily available. Also, keep a vaccinations/worming schedule and all other health information in a place you can easily locate. 

Citizens for Animal Protection (CAP) operates the Cornelius Clinic, an affordable wellness clinic that is open to the public. The Cornelius Clinic can serve as your veterinarian for low-cost wellness/vaccinations, however, it is not a clinic for injured animals or those needing specialist care. 

The AMVA recommends the following vaccinations for cats: Feline Panleukopenia Virus Vaccine (distemper), Feline Calicivirus, Rhinotracheitis AKA Feline Herpes Virus, and Rabies. Other vaccines include Bordetella bronchiseptica (for kennel cough), Gardiasis, and Chlamydiosis. Your cat's lifestyle and circumstances will play a large role in what vaccinations he needs - talk with your veterinarian about the best vaccination plan. If you have adopted your cat from CAP, the cat's vaccinations will be up to date, he will be wormed, spayed/neutered, and checked for feline leukemia.

Fleas: Do not use flea collars, first because their effectiveness is questionable and second, because flea collars can cause skin sores on long-haired cats due to the concentration of poison around the neck. Rather, a good rinse or monthly single dose of products such as Frontline or Advantage (available from your vet) is a better solution to the problem of fleas. Consult your vet for the best option. Flea products contain toxic substances and their use should be minimized to the extent possible.

 

Health Concerns - Please Be Aware CAP takes every step possible to ensure that your new pet is healthy; however, an animal can appear perfectly healthy, displaying no symptoms of illness, and begin to get sick several days later. You have two weeks to return the pet due to illness or behavior issues, and six months to choose another pet.  If your pet begins to show signs of illness within two weeks of adoption, please call us at 281-497-0591 so we can arrange to do a medical evaluation and prescribe medications as appropriate. A very small fee for medications may be charged. Note: CAP is unable to treat animals displaying symptoms of parvovirus, distemper, and other potentially life-threatening and/or highly contagious diseases. If you decide to take your pet to your own veterinarian, CAP cannot be responsible for costs or reimburse expenses.

 

Most Common Illnesses and Symptoms

 

 Feline Upper Respiratory Infection (URI)

Despite the precautions taken by CAP while caring for the cats in our shelter, it is possible for your new pet to have been exposed to URI, commonly described as a feline cold that runs a course of 7-10 days. Symptoms include sneezing, nasal discharge, runny eyes and cough. If left untreated, more serious conditions can develop including pneumonia. A simple treatment of antibiotics will usually cure URI unless the condition has worsened, and then breathing treatments may be needed.

 

Feline Herpes Virus

FHV is the most common cause of upper respiratory infections in cats. FHV is very common and most cats are asymptomatic, but they can show symptoms while under stress, especially in a shelter environment. The symptoms of FHV, which can be easily managed with antibiotics and antiviral medications, include conjunctivitis, discharge from the eyes and/or nose, sneezing, congestion, lethargy, loss of appetite, and fever. FHV is contagious when the cat is actively showing symptoms, and it can be spread through the sharing of food and water dishes and litterboxes, as well as through mutual grooming. Most cats with FHV live a typical lifespan with the addition of proper nutrition and veterinary care.

 

Grooming

 Keeping your cat or kitten clean and well-groomed is important to their overall health and happiness. This doesn't mean weekly baths, but there are important aspects in cat cleanliness and grooming that should not be ignored. For more information on skin and coat care, dental care and eye care, check out this cat grooming care guide. 

 

How to Trim A Cat's Nails

 Trimming a cat's claws every few weeks is a vital part of maintaining the animal's hygiene. Regular trimming not only protects the health of a cat's handlers but also guarantees the well-being of adopters' couches and armchairs. But if the idea of trimming a cat's claws has you biting your nails, know that all it takes is some patience, a little help from a more experienced person, and plenty of practice to sharpen your skills.

1. Stay on the Cutting Edge There are plenty of tools available to trim a cat's claws; use whichever one works best for you and the animal. Some people prefer a special pair of scissors modified to hold a cat's claw in place, others prefer human nail clippers, and still others choose plier-like clippers or those with a sliding "guillotine" blade. Whatever your tool of choice, be sure the blade remains sharp; the blunt pressure from dull blades may hurt an animal and cause a nail to split or bleed.
	2. Take Paws, Part 1  If you approach a cat with a sharp object in one hand while trying to grab a paw with the other, odds are you'll come up empty-handed. Because cats' temperaments and dispositions vary greatly, there is no "perfect" way to handle a cat while trimming his claws. Some cats do well with no restraint at all, but most cats need to be held firmly but gently to make sure that no one gets hurt. Try resting the cat in the crook of one arm while holding one paw with the other hand. Or, place the animal on an examination table and lift one paw at a time. You may even be able to convince a particularly sociable cat to lay back in your lap.
3. Take Paws, Part II If you've got a helper, ask him to hold the cat while you clip the nails, or just ask him to rub the cat's nose or offer a special treat. If you're having a difficult time trimming a cat's rear claws, try gently scruffing the cat and laying him on his side, then have someone else trim the claws.
	4. Take a Little Off the Top Now that you're in position and the cat's in position, put the claw in the right position, too. Take a paw in your hand, curl your fingers into a fist, and use your thumb to gently press down on the joint just above the claw. When the claw extends, quickly but carefully snip off the sharp tip and no more. Don't get too close to the pink part of the nail called "the quick", where blood vessels and nerve endings lie. Just like the pink part of a human fingernail, the quick is very sensitive; cutting into this area will likely hurt the animal and cause bleeding. If this happens, apply a little pressure to the very tip of the claw (without squeezing the entire paw, which would only increase the blood flow) or dip the claw in a bit of styptic powder, then leave the cat alone, being sure to check on him regularly.
When working with a long-haired cat, be sure the fur is clear of the clippers or you may pull the animal's fur, hurting the cat and hurting your chances of ever trimming his nails again. Dark coated cats may have darker nails which can make identifying the quick more difficult.    If you cannot identify the quick, clip immediately in front of the area where the nail starts to curve down.
5. Take it One at a Time If you aren't able to trim all 20 nails at once, don't worry! Few cats remain patient for more than a few minutes, so take what you can get, praise the animal for cooperating, then be on the lookout for the next opportunity - maybe even a catnap - to cut things down to size.   Nail Trim Guide courtesy of the Humane Society of the United States; illustrations by Susie Duckworth

 

 

Declawing Information

Scratching

Scratching is a natural innate behavior of cats. It serves to condition the claws and to mark territory with scent from the paws. Their claws represent instinctive impulses to climb, chase, hunt and defend themselves. It may not be eliminated, but it may be redirected to an acceptable area.

The Declawing Issue

Declawing is unnatural and cruel and denies your pet its instinctive desire to scratch. It is even a safety peril for a cat if they find themselves outside, leaving it defenseless in the jungle beyond the doors. Most nationally recognized humane welfare organizations strongly discourage declawing, and several cities and states have made declawing illegal.

What Declawing Actually Is

Declawing is actually the surgical removal of the entire last digit of each toe, or amputation comparable to the removal of human fingertips to the first knuckle. Sensory and motor nerves are cut, damaged and destroyed. Although the procedure usually heals well and may not harm the cat, recovery from the surgery is a slow and painful process that follows with a lack of feeling, then a tingling sensation during the long convalescence. The cat must walk on the stub end of the second digit. If the surgery is not performed properly, the claws can grow back, but not in the normal way; rather they grow up through the top of the paw creating a bloody raw sore resulting in further corrective surgery.

Lifetime Consequences

Since cats are digitigrade (they walk on their toes), declawing can hamper the sensations and enjoyment involved in walking, running, springing, climbing, and stretching.

Numerous case studies confirm the fact that many cats suffer irreversible psychological damage when their natural defense system is removed. The nervous, defensive attitudes of many declawed cats suggest there is a heightened awareness of their vulnerability. Stress in cats can take its toll in a variety of health and behavior problems.

Many humane welfare workers see not only the lovable, well-behaved cats, but also the many that have been rejected by their guardians due to behavior or temperament problems. Euthanasia is often the sad ending for the declawed cat.

Declawed cats may exhibit one or more of the following problems:

• peculiar litterbox preferences resulting in litterbox avoidance 
• unprovoked biting
• impaired balance and agility
• extreme timidity, especially with strangers or other animals
• lack of playful and vigorous activity in adulthood, resulting in obesity

 

Declawed cats must be restricted indoors for life. Should they slip outdoors accidentally or be relegated to a life outdoors for any reason, the cats would be at a disadvantage to defend themselves or escape from danger.

 

Alternatives to Declawing

• Scratching Posts
  • Cats like to mark their territory in a prominent area, often near a favorite sleeping place, with visible and olfactory evidence of their presence. The scratching post or board should be of reasonable size and a prominent vertical stable structure covered with fabric, carpet, or sisal. It is ok to lay the post or board horizontally on the floor initially. Keep it in the area your cat/kitten spends the most time. Rub your cat's paws on the scratching post and the smell will encourage them to return. You may also use Sticky Paws, a tape-like product for your furniture that will prevent scratching damage.
• Training for the Older Cat
  • The older cat may have to learn not to scratch an area they are using. Consider temporarily covering the furniture corner with plastic to change the texture, or moving the furniture. Place the new scratching post where the furniture corner was. After you have trained the cat to use the desired post, it can be moved by small increments to a more convenient location and your furniture returned to normal. Rub the cat's paws on the new post. If you have to reupholster, a fabric that is tightly woven nubby material may be less attractive to the cat than the longitudinally orientated fabric. For some cats, a squirt from the water sprayer may be added to discourage inappropriate scratching. 
• Clipping Your Cat's Claws
  • Nails trims are HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! By keeping your cat's nails trimmed on a regular basis (about every week or so) you can prevent a great deal of scratching. For information on how to properly trim cat nails please see the previous section. 
• Soft Paws
  • Soft Paws are soft, vinyl nail caps that are easily applied to a cat's newly trimmed nails. They are comfortable caps that cushion the effects of cat scratching, yet allow your cat to stretch and retract its claws naturally. Soft Paws are humane! They last about 4-6 weeks which is 5 times longer than nail trimming alone. Most veterinarians will apply Soft Paws on your cat if you do not feel comfortable or skilled enough yourself, they may even give you hands-on training so you can apply them in the future. 

 

 

Training

 

Contrary to widespread belief, cats are trainable by proper methods: rewards and tangible but removed punishment (see ‘Spray Bottle Method' below). Declawing is not a solution to cat clawing at furniture - declawing is mutilation, not a minor operation. Also, a declawed cat cannot escape nor can they defend themselves as well as a cat with claws. Training for cats is more about protecting cats from themselves - for instance, teach your cat not to jump on counters since they may jump on a stove and be burned.

Be firm and patient with your cat. If the cat scratches its claws where it should not, firmly (without yelling) say "NO", take it to its scratching post, and make scratching motions with its feet. Cats respond well to a firm voice and patience. They are naturally fastidious and want to behave.

The Water Spray Bottle Method: Behavior problems that do not respond to "No!" can usually be modified by giving the cat a quick shot of water from a spray bottle. This method removes you from the punishment in the cat's mind, which is desirable for two reasons: The cat doesn't begin to fear you as a source of punishment (as they would if you spank!), and they thinks the water is ‘An Act of God,' and will refrain from the undesirable behavior even if you are not around. (A similar method works to keep your cat from running outdoors: Stand outside, hose in hand, door open, and spray the cat when it sets foot outside. After a few times, the cat will decide that there's nothing out there that they wanted anyway!

Collars and Leashes: If you use a collar on your cat only use a stretch collar and check it weekly to be sure it is not becoming too tight as the cat grows. A too-loose collar is also dangerous. An elastic collar or breakaway stretch collar is the best choice, as it will separate if it becomes caught on something. Breakaway collars have been known not to breakaway. If you cannot break the collar open using two fingers on your same hand, then it may be too difficult for your cat to break away from this type of collar. If using a collar, include an ID tag but use the small tag meant for cats and not the larger tag.

If you train your cat to a leash, use a harness designed for cats - never a collar because a cat will only struggle against the pull of a collar around its neck, but may be more amenable to the behind-the front-legs tug of a harness. Remember that harnesses are not totally secure, and a cat wearing a harness and leash should never be left unsupervised. The cat may slip out of the harness, or strangle itself on the leash. Do not leave a harness on an animal when indoors or unsupervised. Harnesses are not only uncomfortable for wearing in the house but the animal can get the harness snagged on something. Never walk a leashed cat near a roadway or on a busy sidewalk unless you're sure the cat is very calm - cats that can be trusted not to panic in these situations are literally one-in-a-million! The noise and motion of cars, people, other animals, etc. can cause a cat to panic, slip its harness, and dash into danger. The best place for your leashed cat is in your own quiet backyard with you there with them.

 

Housebreaking A Cat 

Housebreaking a cat or kitten is usually quite easy. Naturally clean animals, most cats are already housebroken by the time they are weaned. It only takes a little patience to train your cat for life.

Since all urban cats should live indoors, your pet will need a litter box or pan about 12"x15"x3". Plastic or baked enamel pans available in most pet stores are easy to keep clean and will not rust. Clear a spot in your bathroom, kitchen, or a secluded section of your home for the litterbox. 

Fill the box or pan at least three inches deep with litter, sawdust, sand, or shredded newspaper. Place the cat in the litterbox first thing in the morning, after meals and play, and last thing at night. To ensure that he gets the idea, gently take their front paws and make little scratching motions the first few times. Your new cat will quickly get the message.

After you complete their training, your cat should continue to use the litterbox as long as you keep it clean and don't move it around too much. Scoop out the feces daily and change the entire litterbox at least once or twice a week. Always wash the pan with plenty of soap and hot water when you change the litter, but never use strong disinfectants. A little baking soda will do the job, but if you do use a diluted bleach cleaning be sure to rinse the bleach off completely. Cats will not use messy, smelly litter boxes.

If your cat has an accident, do NOT hit them or rub their nose in the mess. This kind of punishment will only make them nervous, which might cause them to repeat their error. Instead, say NO firmly and then place them in the litter box. Clean the problem area with soap and spray it with deodorizer. Lemon juice also helps erase the smell of urine from rugs.

Observe your cat's behavior carefully. If they continue to have problems with the litter box, confine them to the room containing the box during their feeding times. They should catch on quickly.

If your cat is still having problems, have them checked thoroughly by your veterinarian as there may be a medical reason for their troubles. If a cat has already been litter box trained for a long period of time and then has accidents in the home, there is a good chance an underlying health issue like a urinary infection is the cause.

Remember, cats are not all alike, but they all need tender loving care to help them better understand the "rules of the house".

 

Play

Cats like to play, but they also like to sleep. Generally, the morning or early evening (following afternoon naps) is the best time if you want an enthusiastic response, especially in an adult cat. Soft toys with no small easily removed and swallowed pieces are good toys; a piece of sturdy cloth attached to a thick string tied to a stick is wonderful. With it you can go 'fishing for cats,' and the pouncing and jumping this toy elicits is a great exercise for the cat. If you use this type of toy, do not leave the cat unattended with it as the cat may strangle itself with or on the string. Do not rough play with your cat, as this can make the cat too aggressive (if the cat kicks at your hand or bites at your fingers, say "no," blow in his face, and remove your hand).

Remember that what your cat needs most are your time and attention. Especially if the cat is left alone during the day, they will be very glad to see you in the evening and demand quite a bit of attention. Please remember that cats are sensitive, living creatures, and don't allow your friends, children, or other pets to mishandle the cat. One sure way to guarantee an unsatisfactory pet is to mistreat them, even inadvertently. On the other hand, plenty of attention, love, and considerate play will result in a companion who will give years of joy.